Hatching Eggs 101
Purchasing new eggs for hatching can be an incredibly exciting, yet intimidating, experience. We have compiled a list of tips and tricks to help you have a successful hatch.
However, it is important to remember, that hatch rates are never guaranteed. Many factors beyond all of our control can contribute to hatching success.
Preparing your incubator:
Prior to receiving your hatching eggs, it is important to have your incubator set up and running for at least 24 hours. You want the temperature and humidity to regulate before you try to set your eggs.
For hatching our eggs, we have found the most success with setting the incubator at 100.0 degrees and 45% humidity for the first 18 days (less for bantams). We will discuss preparing your incubator for hatching later!
Receiving your eggs:
Your hatching eggs just had a long and potentially rough journey. It is time to let them rest! You want to allow your eggs to rest pointy side down at room temperature for at least 24 hours before setting them in the incubator. Resting them with the pointed side down helps the air cell to settle in its proper place before development begins. Air cells are vital to chick development, so do not skip this step!
Closely inspect all eggs for cracks, breaks, or signs of damage. Never set any eggs with damage, as they can allow bacteria to enter the inner membranes or spread throughout your incubator. Do not wash eggs before placing them in the incubator. Hens lay eggs with a natural protective coating, the "bloom," which helps protect the egg through the entire process.
Setting your eggs:
After their 24 hour rest, your eggs are ready to be placed in the incubator. Each incubator is slightly different, so follow the guidelines of your specific model. It is important to have a second hygrometer placed within the incubator to monitor temperature and humidity. The ones built into incubators are often wrong, and even slight errors can be fatal to the chicks.
You will need to rotate your eggs multiple times daily for the first 18 days. Most incubators have an auto-rotating feature that will turn your eggs on a schedule. If yours does not have this feature, you will need to rotate each egg individually by hand at least 4 times per day.
Lockdown and Hatch:
On day 18 (or 16 for micro-bantam eggs), it is time to place your eggs into lockdown! Lockdown is just what it sounds like - it's time to keep the incubator closed until your baby chicks arrive! First, you will want to remove the egg turner if you used one throughout incubation. Line the bottom of the incubator with paper towels or a non-slip shelf liner to help the baby chicks gain their footing. Now, place the eggs back in the incubator, where they will remain untouched until they hatch. Increase your incubator humidity to approximately 65%, ensure that the air vent is open to allow fresh air for the chicks, and close the incubator up until after the hatch is complete!
Approximately 24 hours before hatch, you will begin to see "pips" or tiny cracks in the egg shell. This means your babies are starting the process of hatching out! Be patient during this time. It is a lot of hard work for the chicks, so they will go slowly with nap breaks in between. Once you see pips, you definitely do not want to open your incubator! A drop in humidity after a pip can cause the chick to become shrink wrapped and die before hatching.
Your pips will later become "zips," which is the exciting moment when the chick is about to emerge! The chick will slowly peck in a zipper motion all the way around the big end of the egg and push their way out! The babies will be extremely tired right after hatch, so you will see them take a couple of steps and then flop over for a nap. This is normal, and they will gain their energy back shortly! Allow them to stay in the incubator until they are fully dry, fluffy, and all of your eggs have finished hatching. They can survive 72 hours without food or water after hatch, so they are okay to wait for their siblings to finish hatching. Once they are fluffy, upright, and walking well, they can be moved to the brooder to start living as chicks!